If you run into a cast iron trap (very hard, dark metal), or a lead trap (so soft, you can nick it with a knife) that connects to a cast iron drainpipe, call a plumber to cut it to avoid breakage.
For galvanized pipes, use pipe wrenches or water pump pliers to loosen the pipes at a joint, and then install a corresponding cap or plug, using plumber’s putty and plumber’s tape to hold the cap in place.Next, apply PVC glue to both the end of the pipe, and on the inside of a matching PVC cap, and slip the cap over the end of the pipe. For PVC, cut the pipe with a reciprocating saw, and then clean the pipe end with PVC cleaner.The process will vary slightly depending on your piping: Then you can install a cap or plug on the pipe. Terminating a drainpipe involves removing the drain trap and the drainpipe back to at least the nearest plumbing connection. If you have no plans to install a new bathtub in the old one’s place, you’ll need to terminate the water supply and drain lines. You can also cut steel, fiberglass, and plastic tubs into smaller pieces with a reciprocating saw. Then break the tub into manageable pieces with a sledgehammer.
If the tub is worthless to you, cover it with an old, heavy towel or blanket and put on goggles and a long-sleeve shirt for extra protection from flying chips. Take some measurements first, however: You may need to pull hinge pins and remove a door to gain enough space to fit the bathtub. Then carry it out with the help of your friends. If rusted in place, spray with a rust-removing solvent to loosen. If the old bathtub has value and you wish to salvage it, remove the feet (which should twist off) counterclockwise. In high concentrations, sewer gases can be toxic and flammable, but the small amount that filters out of the tub line will be more obnoxious than hazardous. As soon as you pull the bathtub, stuff a large rag in the top of the now-open drainpipe to block smelly sewer gases this will also ensure nothing gets accidentally dropped into the line. If the bathtub sticks, carefully pry it loose with a crowbar. STEP 6Ĭut away caulking around the bathtub with a utility knife, and then pull the tub out and onto the plywood. If the wall is tiled, use a grinder with a diamond blade to cut through a horizontal grout line and then pop off the individual tiles below with a chisel. You can use a reciprocating saw to cut wallboard, but take care not to cut the studs or any mechanical elements, such as wires or pipes that might be in the stud spaces. And keep in mind that your junk may be another homeowner’s joy: Cast iron claw foot tubs can fetch as much as $800 on the salvage market, and the feet alone could net you upwards of 40 bucks! Tools & MaterialsĬut away a horizontal strip of wall about 6 inches above the bathtub to reveal the tub flange, and remove any screws that secure the flange to the wall studs. But if you follow the procedures outlined here, the process of removing a bathtub should go smoothly.īefore starting, protect the floor from damage by laying down sheets of plywood. You’ll need the right tools, of course, and some plumbing know-how is helpful when disconnecting drainage and water supply lines. While a cast iron tub of yesteryear can weigh as much as 500 pounds, removing it yourself (well, with three or four strong friends) is entirely doable. Maybe you dream of upgrading to a modern jetted model, or simply want to switch to a stall shower to gain square footage-whatever your reason, that old bathtub has got to go.